
This page contains real questions and answers
from one of our custormers which is un-edited.
An ongoing conversation which gives answers to questions that you may have never thought of.
Does this kit include batteries, and what speed and distance should I get?
Yes, The kit includes the Batteries, very good batteries by the way, There are (3) 12 volt
batteries 12 amp/hour combined to produce 36 volts. There are a few variables
for distance and speed. The common criteria for this is: If you weigh 175 lbs. you are on flat land and no headwind,
you should be able to reach 20 miles per hour or more. If you have a multi-speed bicycle and help pedal you can go even
faster. The distance under the same conditions is rated at 20 miles. In real life, you will probably have some
hills, a lot of stops and starts, and some headwinds, I would expect about 16 to 17 miles between charges,
Thank you for your questions, I'm sure you will enjoy,
Dale
Battery Weight
The battery pack
is the heaviest part of the whole system and it weighs 24 lbs. You generally feel that weight when you are standing
still or throwing your leg over the seat to mount the bike.
While you are riding, most people
say they can't even feel the weight.
Depending on the amount of discharge, it takes between 2
and 4 hours to recharge.
Please feel free to ask any more questions or concerns that you might
have,
I hope this helps,
Dale
Pegasus Power Electric Bicycle Motor System
Real Letter
with Real
Questions from a Real Customer ,
Question
I'm very intrigued by this system. I'm an EE and I'd like to take a look at the detailed
specs. Is there a website I can look at? I'm not finding any information online about the Pegasus.
Yes, there is some more
information at Http://www.Pegasuspowersystems.comand maybe a little better description. I also sell the Wilderness Energy Kit which I
have had very good luck with. I would recommend this kit to anyone but I am always looking for upgrades.
I have been working on this new system for about 2 years, a lot
of trial and a lot of error. There are still some things I would have liked to do and maybe will in the future,
but right now I feel this is the best value on the market. Thanks
for your interest,
Dale
Question
Okay, that is a little
better but still kinda short of the hardcore technical details us EE's like to see. I'll just ask some questions outright.
Good, I'll see if I can get you some answerers'
1) Brushless or
brushed motor? Does it pull from a dead stop or does it require pedaling to get moving? (I'm aware pedaling is highly recommended
for either.)
(True) If brushed, are
the brushes pretty easy to replace? How about the bearings? Brushless and you can start from a dead stop; it has a lot of torque.The bearings are sealed and I haven't
had a problem yet 2) How many amps is the
charger rated for? Most of the components seem pretty reasonably priced but the charger seems rather steep. I'd probably want
an extra one to keep at work to charge the battery for the ride home. But I think I could find a perfectly good one (especially
for SLA's) for less than $70.
The charger is 1.8 amps; the second one would cost you $42.00
3) Is there any option for a LiPo or Li-Ion battery? Any way to package some in that battery case?
I don't have the LiPo, I haven't
been convinced of their value yet. I think that they are pretty good but I am waiting for the price to come down
a lot.
I 'm still searching. It's my impression that they are considerably smaller and would
fit in the case.
4) How much juice does
the headlight draw? Do you know what kind of LED's it uses? If it's not really state-of-the-art I might want to go with a
stand-alone unit.
I have never tested
the currant draw (Good idea I will soon) I really like the headlite (6 bulb) but I don't think that they could be considered
state of the art, I do like the battery indicator that is built in and the horn with the separate switch for each. 5) Who manufactures it? Assuming it's a Chinese
factory, is it a reputable one? (I have a lot of experience with Chinese mfrs so I'm not opposed to them, just the lousy ones).
Is the build quality decent, and are replacement parts available?
I have a broker that does all of the buying for me, he is Chinese
and has always done a good job for me. We went through 7 different motors before we decided on this one. It was
built to my physical specs from 7" diameter to 10" dia. 3" wide, instead 3 1/2". I haven't
had a bad one yet out of over 160 sold. There are several different manufacturers for everything, the battery and
controller case, the controller the light, brake handles etc.
My next go around, probably 6 to 8 months, I will have a
reconfigured case, a little wider, a little shorter and the controller housing a little larger.
I am still looking for a beefier wheel, thicker
spokes and maybe a double walled rim. They are out there but so far the pricing is prohibitive.
All replacement parts are available, if I should have to
rob something from a kit, I will, and replace them later. This is what I have had to do with the Wilderness kit.
Well, you know all the right questions and I hope I have
helped.
Thanks
again,
Dale
Question:
It sounds from your answers (particularly
to my last question) that this is your design. Is that true? Congratulations if so, it really does look like a winner, clearly
better than the WE version that I've been looking at. My favorite feature is the quick-removal battery case....I have about
a 20-mile commute to work, and I'd have to recharge at work for the ride home, which I could easily do with your system. Pop
the battery off, take it inside to charge, pop it back on when I leave. Love that feature! Or, I could just carry a charged
second battery with me for the ride home...but then the first one would sit uncharged all day.
That's really my
main interest in the LiPo/Li-Ion battery technology. SLA's just don't have as long a lifetime, especially if they're not treated
well (recharged immediately after discharge). Deep discharges also reduce their life pretty fast. I've been using lithium
batteries, both primary and rechargeable, for some time in my work as an EE and I've come to really appreciate their size/capacity
ratio and their tolerance for charging and discharging multiple times. As long as you don't overcharge or over-discharge them
they're fine for a long time.
Nice controller design if it's a brushless motor but works from a dead stop. I'm
guessing it must use Hall effect sensors rather than pickup coils.
Good point about the battery meter. I'm assuming
it's just a voltmeter? I was toying with making my own voltmeter/current meter which would monitor current draw/charge as
well as voltage. Probably the voltmeter alone would be fine though.
Since I'd use mine to commute, I'd need to
carry my working clothes. Is the top of the battery case flat enough to strap stuff onto? Having the rack is nice, it would
be nice not to lose it with the battery in place.
Are there any bicycles in particular you recommend for outfitting?
I have an old Trek 1100 road bike but I'm thinking about getting a more rugged mountain bike/hybrid kind of thing for the
electric retrofit. I'm getting a bit too old (and a bit too out of shape!) to be bent over the bars like that for long.
Thanks for the patience, but you know us engineers. We want to know every detail before we commit!
Doug
--- On Sat, 2/28/09, Dalesbest4bikes@aol.com <Dalesbest4bikes@aol.com> wrote:
From: Dalesbest4bikes@aol.com
<Dalesbest4bikes@aol.com>
Doug, The battery case is pretty flat and I don't see any reason for not throwing
on some saddle bags or even a back pack over them. You might consider even lacing or hooking to the battery handles.
If not, it has a pretty strong rack to hook up to.
About the spare battery pack, that would be
a little heavy to carry with you. You could carry the charger in you bag and not have to purchase another one.
Thanks for all your questions, I do enjoy
answering them, when I am able.
Dale
Doug, One of your questions that I forgot to answer. If you decide to
buy a new bike, a couple of things that I think are important. A good strong frame that is comfortable for
you. NO ALUMINUM FORKS, Get the highest gear ratio available. With a single speed, your motor will
be taking you faster than you can pedal and the more you pedal the more distance and speed you will get. Pedaling with
the motor is so much easier even in the highest gear.
Dale
Question Dale, Why no aluminum forks? Is it a clearance problem or are there structural issues? I
was looking at Montague's MX: which does have an aluminum fork. If it's a real problem I suppose I'd go with the next
model down, the CX. Doug
--- On Sat, 2/28/09, Dalesbest4bikes@aol.com <Dalesbest4bikes@aol.com>
wrote: Doug, I
have had a few problems with Aluminum forks breaking. Particularly those with a welded on tab that have the slots for the
axle. The tab breaks off of the fork where
it is welded. I
have had two break locally and two reports from web sales.
Dale
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